Eclairs
Nanjing Night Net

You can pipe the pastry out as suggested to make a classic eclair shape or use a star nozzle in your piping bag for a different look. Alternatively, you could spoon mounds wonto your baking tray to make profiteroles, dip in chocolate, sprinkle with praline and then pipe the espresso cream inside.

Choux pastry

100ml milk

80g butter

1 tsp castor sugar

1 pinch salt

120g plain flour

3 large eggs, whisked

200g dark chocolate, to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 220C, fan-forced.

2. In a small saucepan bring the milk, butter, sugar, salt and 100 millilitres of water to a simmer. Tip the flour in and stir with a wooden spoon over medium heat for three to five minutes; it will start to pull away from the sides of the pan and form a ball, but keep beating it around to cook out the flour. Take off the heat and leave to cool for a couple of minutes.

3. Slowly beat in the eggs, making sure each addition is incorporated before adding the next. Then add the mix to a stand mixer with a K-beater attached and mix until the dough is smooth and silky.

4. Spoon the mix into a piping bag with a plain nozzle and pipe into lines on a lined baking tray, leaving three-centimetre spaces between each line. Wet your fingers and flick water over the tray — the steam will aid rising. Bake for 12 minutes until puffed and golden, reduce the heat to 180C fan-forced and cook for a further five minutes. Allow to cool.

5. Melt the chocolate in a bowl sitting on top of a saucepan with an inch or so of barely simmering water. Dip the eclairs in the chocolate, sprinkle with praline and allow to set.

6. Slice the eclairs open and fill with the espresso cream and serve.

Bakes 10-12

Drink Earl Grey tea

Espresso cream

This custard will thicken and set once it is fully chilled, making it perfect for spreading on the eclairs. For the impatient, dipping the cooked choux in the espresso cream is almost as good.

180ml cream 45 per cent fat

180ml cream 35 per cent fat

30ml strong espresso coffee

6 large egg yolks

2 tbsp cornflour

80g castor sugar

1. Bring creams to a simmer in a saucepan then add espresso, stir and take off heat.

2. Whisk egg, cornflour and sugar together until pale, then gradually whisk in cream.

3. Return to the stove over a medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened. Take off heat and cool, then cover with cling film, laying it directly on top of the custard to stop a skin forming. Chill in the fridge.

Walnut and coffee praline

Praline is a great way to dress up dessert, but even a simple scoop of vanilla ice-cream with a good sprinkling of crunchy praline is not so simple any more.

50g walnuts

300g castor sugar

2 tbsp coffee beans

1. Preheat oven to 180C fan-forced or 200C conventional.

2. Spread the walnuts on a baking tray and roast for five minutes, then wrap in a tea towel and rub off the skins and chop roughly.

3. Add the sugar to a small pot and cook to a medium-coloured caramel, shaking the pan regularly to cook evenly. Meanwhile, warm the walnuts and coffee beans on a baking tray for one minute and add to the caramel, stirring to evenly coat the nuts. Tip the hot caramel onto baking paper and allow to cool.

4. Crush the praline in a mortar and pestle. Store in an airtight container.

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Solving the riddle of rissoles in Brain Food. Photo: Marina Oliphant Use your hands … Working the meat will help your rissoles stay together when you cook them. Photo: Eddie Jim
Nanjing Night Net

Rissoles. Photo: Eddie Jim

l have been cooking for more than 60 years but am still unable to make rissoles out of minced beef – they have always broken up. M. Goard

As a young man, and contrary to what the boarding-house masters lectured us, I followed the words of a kindly German butcher who said: ”Richard, you must use your hands on your meat.” While he struggled with the nuances of the English language, he did impart the basic philosophy that chopped meat, when used to make sausages, rissoles, meat loaf and the like, must be worked to get the protein to bind together. So get your hands scrupulously clean and get them into the rissole mix and work it for a few minutes until the texture changes from gooey to sticky. This means the meat protein has been released and is binding the ingredients together. It will set like a glue when cooked.

How do I store anchovies and for how long? B. Grice

A mate of mine imports anchovies from Spain in refrigerated containers, stores them in coolrooms at his warehouse, and prefers his retail clients sell them from refrigerated display cabinets. Like most anchovies, they are stored in oil that will oxidise when exposed to heat, light or air, and then taste rancid. They are high quality, costly and incredibly fresh-tasting, and delicious enough to eat straight from the tin as a tapa. I keep these in the fridge, consume them on the same day they’re opened, or keep them in the tin and use within a few weeks for cooking. Regarding cheaper anchovies for cooking, I prefer those packed in tins to store in the cupboard. Anchovies packed in jars, because they have already been exposed to light, tend to suffer from oxidation more frequently, so I store these in the fridge. Keep to the use-by dates and use within a few weeks after opening if you are sensitive to rancidity.

A lot of American cake recipes use corn syrup. Is there an alternative? F. Atkinson

The alternative is to use something that is not the product of an out-of-control US food policy, which subsidises farmers to produce cheap corn, the starch from which is treated with mould enzymes that break the starch into glucose or corn syrup. It is not as sweet as sugar and has a pH of between 3.5 and 5.5, so is quite acidic. Or try making a syrup of one cup of sugar to ¼ cup of water, mixed in a saucepan over a medium heat until dissolved. Allow to cool and use as directed. Cane sugar doesn’t have the same moisture-holding properties of glucose and could be a little drier to taste, depending on how much fat is in the recipe. Cane sugar tastes twice as sweet as glucose, so your cake will taste sweeter. Because corn syrup is slightly acidic, check the recipe to see if it uses baking soda. The addition of corn syrup to baking soda will set off the reaction needed to make gas for the cake to rise. In this case, try using equal amounts of honey, which is acidic. The only problem is that honey, because it is made of both glucose and sweeter-tasting fructose, tastes sweeter than glucose, so you will end up with quite a sweet-tasting cake.

What is the difference between baking powder and baking soda, and can they be interchanged? S. Joseph

We have covered this before. Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate and is alkaline. When it comes into contact with acid in the batter, it creates a chemical reaction in which carbon-dioxide is released to raise cakes. Acids include tartaric acid from cream of tartar, citric acid from lemon juice, or gluconic acid in honey (see above). Baking powder contains a raising agent that is activated by heat. Substitute baking powder for baking soda and you’ll end up with a flat cake that tastes like soap.

Letters

”I can’t find MON sauce or Thin Captains in my local supermarket,” K. Moyles writes. While I am tracking these down, are there any favourite branded items in the supermarket you have noticed disappearing to make way for home branded goods?

Thanks to T. Davidson, who wrote in with this: ”When I was in Bolivia recently, the locals were amused by my pronunciation of their native grain quinoa as ‘keen-wah’. The local pronunciation was ‘key-no-ah’.”

Leave a question for Richard Cornish in the comments below or email him at: [email protected]南京夜网.au

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Tom Bellchambers wants to stay at Essendon and probably will. Stewart Crameri, Cale Hooker, Scott Gumbleton, Tayte Pears, Jason Winderlich and Jake Melksham want to be there next year too.
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Essendon’s list of uncontracted players includes some of its best and most improved players, and odds are most of them will remain. Jobe Watson re-signed for four years earlier this season with the investigation in full swing.

Dyson Heppell, Jake Carlisle and others have shown faith too. Whatever happened at Windy Hill last year, the players have hardly rushed for the door. But, for those who wish to leave, things may have become complicated.

In an ordinary year, Essendon would be in an enviable position, approaching the finals then the off-season. A young, improving list that has spent much of the season in the top four. Joe Daniher in the wings. A bunch of tall players that they can’t play all at once, meaning the sort of trade table clout the club hasn’t had in a long while. Motivation to be make a few moves, given their salary cap has become a little clogged.

For the players, this would have meant good things too. Whether he stays or takes a big offer from Greater Western Sydney, Bellchambers, for instance, is due a decent pay rise.

This is not exactly an average year, though. Whatever happens to their club, the players’ wait isn’t over. The fact the report handed to the AFL from the Australian Sports Anti-Doping Authority had the word ”interim” stamped on it says that and has made the Bombers’ off-season a talking point.

It means it could be harder for players who want to move, given the penalties that may come. It may be harder for those delisted to find a new home. It could become more difficult for the club to shake some change, to make room on their list, to perhaps nab an extra first-round pick or two.

”I haven’t picked up that feeling, that clubs won’t go near Essendon,” said one player manager. ”But I think everyone’s waiting to see what happens.”

Others have more trepidation. Players such as Bellchambers or Crameri could cost clubs a first-round pick, not to mention a lot of money. They wonder what it might mean if ASADA’s work isn’t done. Could they trade for a player, only to lose him for a long time should evidence be found?

Having talked Kurt Tippett out of Adelaide last year, Sydney had no choice but to stick by him when he was suspended for six months after the AFL finished investigating his against-the-rules deals with the Crows.

They coped. But the thought of bringing a player in, with no idea of what ASADA or even the World Anti-Doping Agency might do, makes some nervous.

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Bulldogs coach Des Hasler has expressed his frustrations over the NRL officiating after a staggering 23 penalties were blown in Monday night’s loss to the Gold Coast.
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The night was a costly one for the Bulldogs, whose top-four prospects were all but ended by the 26-16 defeat, while likely losing front-rower Sam Kasiano for several weeks with a knee injury. But the refereeing became a talking point, after the officials found infringements at better than a penalty every four minutes.

“Go and ask Daniel Anderson,” Hasler said. “I don’t know. I can’t get a read on it. I think last week, we were 12 penalties against us, the week before that we only had six. Go and ask the people in charge. I can’t get a read on it.”

His counterpart, Gold Coast’s John Cartwright, said the ruck interpretations made officiating a “lottery”.

“I hate seeing a game with that many penalties,” Cartwright said. “No-one wins. Too many stoppages for the players, too many stoppages for the fans, your key playmakers don’t get any advantage from it when there’s that many penalties, because it’s so slow. The continuity of the game is affected.

“The way the game is refereed now, you can state a case for a penalty at every ruck, and I’ve got not doubt that they will state a case for every penalty that was given. But it’s a fine line. Some referees will let the game flow, and if the game does flow, the odd slow play-the-ball doesn’t really matter.

“But if it’s constantly penalised at the ruck, the game does become a bit of a lottery.”

Titans co-captain Nate Myles said he had been frustrated by the stoppages.

“Some of them were definite penalties, and some weren’t,” he said. “Sometimes, you think they do it to even things up, so they just blow it. I’m not sure what to say, but it gets a bit frustrating.”

Hasler, though, did add that the officials did not cost the Bulldogs the contest.

“We didn’t help our own cause, and we certainly helped theirs,” he said. “There were a number of times where we had the game and were unable to go on with it. We were really sloppy in a lot of areas.

“It was our opportunity to get away from that congestion (in the top eight). We’ve got a tough fortnight ahead of us now.”

The Titans have now snuck into the top eight as a result of their win, while the Bulldogs’ chances of making the top four are all but over. “It was a game played like there was a lot on the line,” Cartwright said.

“It was just really pleasing from our angle. We haven’t won a game like that for a while.

“There’s light at the end of the tunnel now. We’ve worked our way back into the eight, and we certainly want to stay there.”

Kasiano, meanwhile, will have scans on Tuesday, but the Bulldogs were already resigned to losing the front-rower at least for their match against Canberra on Saturday. “I think it’ll be a number of weeks,” Hasler said.

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CAPTAIN Ruben Zadkovich remains “100 per cent committed” to leading the Newcastle Jets but has not ruled out an overseas move.
Nanjing Night Net

Zadkovich resumed training with the A-League club yesterday after a “meet and greet” at English Championship outfit Millwall that included putting “the boots on a couple of days and a bit of a light session”.

Millwall, who last week signed Queens Park Rangers midfielder Shaun Derry on a month loan, have not tabled an offer for Zadkovich, whom they first approached in July.

The transfer window closes on August 31.

“I’m not expecting anything to change in the next two weeks,” he said.

“Obviously the window is still open and you never know.

“But I can look you in the face and say I am 100 per cent committed to Newcastle.

“I am still the captain of Newcastle and this is where I want to play my football.

“I would not have re-signed here if it was any different.”

Zadkovich has two years remaining on his Jets contract but has previously played in England at Queens Park Rangers, Notts County and Derby County.

“I am never going to not show interest in playing at a higher level,” Zadkovich said.

“That is what we all aspire to do. That’s why we play football – to play at the best level we can.”

Zadkovich said he had formed a “pretty strong” relationship with Millwall manager Steve Lomas.

“In the end there is figure on my head here if a club wants a transfer,” he said.

“It is basically up to clubs to put an offer forward.

“I think it was a money issue for them.

“Their club captain Danny Shittu was a first-team pro when I was a youngster at Queens Park Rangers. He helped me fit in with the boys and made sure I got to know everyone.

“That was important for their manager to see what type of person I was around the squad.

“Things went really well, but in the end I’m still here at Newcastle and stoked to be.”

The Millwall trip also gave Zadkovich an opportunity to visit his eldest brother, London based solicitor Luke.

It continued a varied pre-season which started with a trek to the Top End to visit middle brother Simon and included a recall to the Socceroos squad and two caps at the East Asia Cup.

“It is such a long pre-season here,” Zadkovich said.

“When you are training day-in, day-out for four months without serious competition, it can get mundane.

“For me to go away and have a bit of time with the national squad, to get up and see my brother up north and top it off by seeing my brother in London has been perfect.

“Now I still have a solid two-month stint here with my team.”

Zadkovich was unsure if he would play in the trial against Bonnyrigg tomorrow night.

With Zenon Caravella returning from an Achilles problem, Ben Kantarovski and Josh Brillante are likely to start in midfield against the White Eagles.

“There are plenty of guys there who can play as a holding midfielder,” Zadkovich said.

“We have a really strong squad. It is young, it is feisty and the boys are really hungry.

“That is perfect for me, I would never want to be at a club where it was easy to get a spot in the he starting team. I always want to be pushed.”

Jets chief executive Robbie Middleby confirmed that the Jets were still in the hunt for the “right central defender”.

Sydney-based Italian defender Vincenzo Ricciardi trained yesterday but has been let go.

AAP reports: A-League club Melbourne Victory are determined not to lose Socceroo Mark Milligan for anything less than top dollar – and would prefer to keep him.

English Premier League side Crystal Palace are chasing Milligan, and the Victory said they had made an offer.

But the Victory said it was well below market value – believed to be around $500,000 with add-ons.

Postecoglou said Milligan was the best player in Australia right now, and did not want to sell a player central to his A-League plans.

“We value him very, very highly. We’d expect them to meet our valuation of him.

“He’s the best player at our club, he’s the best player in the country at the moment.

“I don’t think we need to be out there trying to flog him, and we’re certainly not doing it for the money,” he said.

Milligan has two years left on his Victory contract.

RUBEN ZADKOVICH

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